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The Inside Story
by John Lund
Exploring British Columbia’s Saanich Inlet
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If the popular boating destination of Sidney is located on the “outside” of British Columbia’s Saanich Peninsula, on Vancouver Island’s eastern shore, then Saanich Inlet -- 2 miles due west across Saanich Peninsula -- must be on the “inside.”
Here’s the inside story on cruising Saanich Inlet -- that 12-mile body of water featuring secluded anchorages, great fishing, fine dining, abundant wildlife, friendly marinas and one of the West Coast’s greatest tourist attractions: Butchart Gardens.
Getting to Saanich Inlet
Heading north from Sidney, past Tsehum Harbour -- home to popular marine institutions like Van Isle Marina, the Blue Peter Pub, Philbrooks Boatyard, Capital City Yacht Club and more -- steer toward John Passage. Keep Coal Island to starboard and Fernie and Goudge islands to port. In behind these islands is Canoe Cove, home of Canoe Cove Marina and the Stonehenge Pub.
Once in Colburne Channel, head west past Swartz Head. Stay alert for constant B.C. Ferry traffic coming and going from Swartz Bay, the major terminus for ferries traveling to Vancouver and the Gulf Islands.
In Satellite Channel there’s clear sailing before rounding Moses Point south into Saanich Inlet. Watch for Wain Rock to starboard upon entering the Inlet.
Saanich Inlet’s first star attraction is found behind the rock in Deep Cove. Canadian Hydrographic Service Chart 3441 is recommended for navigating Saanich Inlet.
When in Saanich Inlet
Deep Cove
On the bank above Deep Cove is located one of the Pacific Northwest’s great restaurants, Deep Cove Chalet. Operated by Chef Pierre Koffel, the French fare is superb and the wine cellar is unsurpassed. Dining at the Chalet is well worth dropping the hook and going ashore by dinghy, or the Chalet staff will be pleased to pick up your party by limo at any of the area marinas. The closest is Deep Cove Marina, on the cove’s south shore.
Patricia Bay
Saanich Inlet has long been renowned among oceanographers for its geologic uniqueness. Glaciers carved the Inlet, creating a deep trench and making it the only true fjord on eastern Vancouver Island.
What makes it unique is the shallow sill formed at its entrance. The sill restricts the flow of oxygen-rich waters into the Inlet. As a result, organisms that normally burrow into the bottom sediments of other British Columbia waterways can’t survive in the oxygen-poor waters of Saanich Inlet. This makes the Inlet special to the world’s oceanographers, who travel here to study the undisturbed layers of sedimentation left after thousands of years of biologic activity.
Whether it was by accident or design, one of the world’s leading oceanographic institutions -- the Institute of Ocean Sciences (IOS), operated by the Canadian Department of Fisheries and Oceans -- is located on Patricia Bay, Saanich Inlet. Boaters should make an effort to take the hour and a half tour offered by the facility. Also, make a request to see the Canadian Hydrographic Service’s Pacific Division headquarters, where navigation charts are made for the Canadian West Coast and Arctic regions. Call Art Walters to arrange a tour; (250) 363-6518.
The IOS tour will prove compelling for those with an interest in ocean sciences, cartography and navigation. Skippers can fill in the gaps in their West Coast chart sets, as there is a chart sales and distribution office on the premises.
“Pat” Bay, as it is known locally, is shared with the IOS by Canada’s Department of National Defense and a Victoria International Airport seaplane base. It is a busy area and restricted for anchoring and mooring, although you can usually obtain prior authorization by calling (250) 363-6518.
Mill Bay
Due west across the Inlet from Patricia Bay is Mill Bay, home of the quaint Mill Bay Marina. Farther south along the shore is the Mill Bay ferry terminal, which saves drivers the trip over the Malahat Highway, around Saanich Inlet to Saanich Peninsula. The ferry lands at Brentwood Bay, on the Inlet’s eastern shore.
Pulling into Mill Bay Marina is like a step back in time to a quieter era. We landed on a hot mid-August afternoon and, although there were modern boats coming and going, the scene was reminiscent of the 1950s. It was so peaceful, a family of seals was snoozing on the dock, oblivious to the people nearby.
The marina staff monitors VHF Channel 68 and CB Channel 10, should you want to call them to see if there’s moorage space available for the night. The docks have 15 amp power and fresh water, and the marina has a fuel station with both gasoline and diesel.
Owners Fred and Marilyn Laba keep the dock shop stocked with bait and tackle, and they offer local fishing advice. The kids can fill up on ice cream and soda pop, and the coffeepot is always on. Onshore, there’s a laundry, restrooms and showers. Trailerboaters will find a large boat ramp next door.
The marina is a long block from Mill Bay Centre, a shopping mall with a large Thrifty Foods grocery store, a liquor store, a specialty wine store, a tourist info center, a drugstore, a restaurant and other shops.
Down the beach, a public dock with 75 feet of moorage makes a good passenger pickup and drop-off spot. There is lots of anchorage in the bay. Here, you can drop the hook and let the kids have the dinghy. They can explore a lovely sandy beach while you enjoy some good old-time peace and quiet – which is what Mill Bay is all about.
Brentwood Bay
While navigating Saanich Inlet, chances are, you’ll see the little B.C. Ferry shuttling vehicles and passengers back and forth between Mill Bay and Brentwood Bay. It’s a Saanich Inlet institution, and following the ferry is an easy way to find Brentwood Bay on the Inlet eastern shore.
Not that you could miss it, because Brentwood Bay is the most populated section of Saanich Inlet. Here, you will find several marinas, a hotel, restaurants and a small village at the end of the ferry dock. The surrounding slopes are covered with homes and condominiums.
At the north side of the ferry dock is Seahorses Cafe, a pleasant place to have lunch, on a flower-covered patio deck. If you are lucky, you might be able to tie up at the small dock there.
To the north of Seahorses Cafe is Brentwood Port Side Marina. The marina occasionally has a guest slip or two and, if you are having any mechanical problems, you should note that the marina has 25 ton ways and a repair yard.
On the south side of the ferry dock is Brentwood Inn Resort and Marina. The Inn and docks looked like they were being readied for refit on our last trip. Call to confirm that they are open for business.
A public dock with some floats is located to the south. Farther south still is Anglers Anchorage Marina. Anglers offers overnight moorage and has a customs check-in, power and water at the docks, a laundry, showers and a pumpout station.
We were eager to try the newly opened Blue’s Bayou Restaurant, with its inviting patio deck, great views and spicy New Orleans-style food. It was closed during our visit, but we’ll try again on a Saturday evening. That’s when you can reportedly see Butchart Gardens’ fireworks display over the trees to the south, on Tod Inlet.
Finlayson Arm
While cruising southward along the west shore of Saanich Inlet, you’ll pass the enormous Bamberton Cement Works, which operated from 1913 to 1980. Once around Sheppard and McCurdy points, the steep sides of the fjord quickly become more apparent when you head into narrow Squally Reach and the even narrower Finlayson Arm.
Following this beautiful waterway to the end takes you to Goldstream Boathouse, which often has a few slips for overnighters. Call ahead to make sure. The Boathouse has power and water at the docks, and the shop has tackle and bait.
The Boathouse is just a short dinghy trip -- or a 3-mile walk up the driveway and then along the highway -- to Goldstream Park. In the confines of the evergreen-filled park, the Goldstream River offers an incredible spectacle for those who have never witnessed spawning salmon.
The biggest salmon run is in mid-October, when chum salmon return to the river to spawn. Dozens of bald eagles come to feed on them as they die. It is a sight you will never forget.
Tod Inlet -- Butchart Gardens
The narrow Tod Inlet, running south from Brentwood Bay, is home to a world-famous man-made spectacle and one of the world’s leading tourist attractions: Butchart Gardens.
Following Tod Inlet leads boaters to a small bay with buoys where visitors can tie up or drop an anchor.
Guests can use the dinghy dock for access to Butchart Gardens. The dock is also used by floatplanes bringing tourists by air.
During summer, a ticket booth at the top of the dock is staffed. At other times, boaters are on their honor to pay at the booth across from the gift shop, in the main building.
The Gardens date back to 1904 when Mrs. Jenny Butchart began beautifying the remains of a limestone quarry, dug out for the production of Portland Cement by her husband Robert Pim Butchart. By layering the quarry floor with tons of topsoil carried in from local farms by horse cart, Mrs. Butchart gradually reclaimed what is now the Sunken Garden. She followed that up by creating the Japanese Garden, the Rose Garden and the Italian Garden.
From the 1920s, when more than 50,000 visitors began arriving annually to see the estate -- called “Benvenuto” by the hospitable Butcharts -- the Gardens have grown in reputation. They are now one of the West Coast’s major tourist attractions.
If you only have one day to visit Butchart Gardens, make it a Saturday evening during July or August. If you arrive in the late afternoon, you can still walk the gardens; have a leisurely dinner in either the Dining Room or the Blue Poppy Restaurant and Conservatory, then wind up your visit by watching a spectacular fireworks display, beginning at sunset.
Seeing the Gardens and Ross Fountain lit by thousands of colored lights, with beautifully choreographed fireworks exploding overhead, is one of the most memorable things you can do by boat. It makes a fitting end to Saanich Inlet’s “inside” story.
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This article first appeared in the March 1, 2001 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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