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The Rennaisance of Rosario
by Leslee Jaquette
Orcas Island’s historic resort is transformed into an even better destination
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After an elegant day cruising the San Juan Islands, I radioed Nelson Moulton, the harbormaster at Rosario Resort Marina on Orcas Island. Motoring halfway into East Sound, a six-mile-deep, horseshoe-shaped inlet, I was a bit anxious about mooring my 32 foot Bayliner in the shallow marina with its notoriously snug floats.
Reading the concern in my voice, Moulton accurately evaluated my experience. In a calm, friendly voice, he welcomed me to Rosario and then suggested that my son, Roger, and I simply pull alongside the fuel dock. Fenders and lines ready, we eased into the 35 slip dock with relative success.
While I regained my composure, Moulton talked us through the mooring procedure. He pointed out our slip and reviewed how best to finagle the twin screws. Noting many boaters accept help mooring, the 35-year-old harbormaster even offered to dock the Bayliner.
Buoyed by the encouragement, we tackled mooring and managed just fine. In keeping with Moulton’s philosophy that boaters’ experience at Rosario should be nothing short of exceptional, we felt nurtured from the first contact when making reservations for our departure after a three-day weekend.
During our stay, we learned that Rosario is scheduled to start work next spring on an impressive list of improvements that will double the size of the marina moorage and add a new breakwater. These additional improvements, in combination with the new waterfront amenities, promise to develop Rosario into a worldclass marine destination.
“I’m so excited about the marina that I come down to the office to have coffee on my days off,” Moulton said. “The potential here is tremendous. Rosario is a real diamond in the rough and I want to be part of it.”
Rosario Marina Update
Next year, the 127 room resort is scheduled to add 40 new slips to the marina. These slips will accommodate the growing number of vessels in the 40 to 50 foot range. The new, 250-foot-long T-dock configuration acts as both moorage and breakwater. Similar in design to the one at Friday Harbor, the dock will feature 40 foot slips on one side and 60 foot slips on the other. The end of the configuration is designed to accommodate large vessels, including luxury yachts and tour vessels.
The following year, the old docks will be rebuilt. More than $2 million will have been invested in improvements by the boating season of 2002. Moorage space will be doubled, and a list of waterfront amenities will be added. “Still, no matter how much we renovate and grow,” said Moulton, “the critical element is that each slip still has a view.”
Beyond moorage news, Rosario plans to build additional parking and install a year-round pumpout facility. The dock fuel system is currently being revamped so patrons can self-serve fuel 24 hours a day. A self-serve fuel pump will also be positioned on shore.
In conjunction with the dock improvements, marina visitors can look forward to new showers, a laundry and a grocery. A selection of nautical boutiques will be located in the former machine shop near the marina office.
Navigation
Throughout the transition, access to Rosario will remain the same as in the past. Navigation is straightforward into Cascade Bay and Rosario. Boaters should consult NOAA charts 18430 (Orcas Island) or 18421 (San Juans). According to Moulton, there are no major hazards, currents are light and the tidal exchange is average for the San Juans.
While no major navigational problems exist, East Sound enjoys several weather-related benefits. Due to a convergent zone associated with 2,407 foot Mount Constitution, the area typically sees light winds. In summer, 10 knot southerlies prevail with flat calm arriving for cocktails. Moulton added that although Rosario often has fog in the summer, it usually has the courtesy to dissipate after brunch. What’s more, rainfall in East Sound is 22 inches a year or about half the average rainfall in Seattle.
Marina Details
Upon entering Cascade Bay, many boaters tie to any of Rosario’s 26 mooring buoys. Complimentary and available on a first-come, first-served basis, the buoys cannot be reserved and are considered an amenity for those interested in coming ashore. The buoys are designed for boats up to 40 feet, but in light air can accommodate vessels in the 60 foot range. Still, Moulton observed that it is safer to anchor boats larger than 40 feet. Boaters using the buoys, who purchase a $20 pass, gain access for four people to the resort’s three swimming pools and spa.
Moulton suggested guests reserve moorage well in advance, particularly for August and September. He warned that the one and only slip large enough for vessels up to 110 feet is by far the most coveted. While late summer is filled to overflowing, Moulton noted that Rosario often has slips available the two weeks following the Fourth of July. Rosario provides no permanent moorage during the summer, so it can offer the entire facility to transient boaters.
Moulton said the marina staff’s first priority is customer service. The goal is to alleviate anxiety by helping people know what to expect. “My biggest joy is to see people so happy,” said Moulton. “All the boaters here are on vacation, so Rosario is more festive than most marinas. The fun is infectious; you’ve just got to get with the party!”
Destination Dive Resort
Opened last May, Island Dive & Water Sports marks the first visible change on the waterfront. A full-service PADI operation located on the ground floor of the old shop, Island Dive is the first operation in the San Juans to team up with a major resort property. After considerable market research, owners Ron and Marci Kenny were determined to offer the kind of packages, introductory and specialty courses, top rental equipment and amenities that characterize true destination resorts.
The Kennys offer guided diving to more than 30 sites within a 20 minute boat ride of Rosario on the 28 foot Canaveral, Island Diver. They have developed a number of comprehensive packages, including an off-season, dive-stay package (October-May) that runs $199 per person. It includes one night’s lodging with access to any of the resort facilities plus two, two-tank boat dives, snacks and beverages. “After a full day of diving, folks can enjoy a massage, sit by the pool and indulge in an elegant meal with a sunset,” Ron Kenny said.
Island Dive is also one of the first operations in the Northwest to offer Discover Scuba and Discover Scuba Diving classes. Formerly known as “resort” courses, these introductory classes give resort and marina guests an opportunity to “test the waters.”
Roger and I have been hooked on diving for more than a decade. The Kennys’ first customers, we dove the walls and ledges off nearby Bell Island as well as a “secret” spot (we swore not to divulge its location) where the marine life covered the rocks like a seething tapestry. Giant lingcod, octopi, delicate nudibranchs (sea slugs), corals and mustard splatters of sponge enveloped us in an otherworldly, underwater drama.
The Mansion and More
Rosario is one of the highlights of any trip to Orcas Island. Originally built as a family residence in 1909 by Seattle shipbuilding magnate Robert Moran, the Moran Mansion remains the heart of the resort and spa. Listed in the National Register of Historic Places and a member of the national Trust Historic Hotels of America, the 54 room mansion was converted to an inn in 1960.
Marina visitors are invited to tour the second floor (eight room) Moran Museum and join the mansion curator for nightly presentations and concerts in the Music Room. This splendid room is home to a Tiffany chandelier, a Belgian stained glass window depicting the Harbor of Antwerp and a working 1,972 pipe Aeolian organ.
The mansion is also home to the resort’s restaurants, lounges and newly renovated health spa. During our recent visit to Rosario, Roger and I shared Chef Geddes Martin’s signature crab salad, breast of duck and grilled chinook salmon as well as the double chocolate “blackout” torte in the mansion’s fine dining restaurant, the Compass Room. The spa offers a full menu of services, including massage therapies and herbal wraps.
Rosario also provides a long list of activities. Guests are invited to depart from the resort on whale watching and Orcas Island tours. Kayak tours and rentals are available. Guests can play a game of tennis, relax by the pool or head off for a round of golf at the nine-hole Orcas Island Golf Course.
Several “must-stops” on the island, which are easily accessible by resort transportation, include nearby 5,000 acre Moran State Park and 2,407 foot high Mount Constitution. Otherwise, boaters often ride into Eastsound for shopping and an ice cream cone.
Rosario Resolve
In the near future, Moulton projected Rosario will evolve into the San Juan’s most popular yachting headquarters. Once marina construction is complete, he plans to instigate a number of regattas and boating events, including a Rosario Wooden Boat Show. He suggested Rosario is the perfect venue for something the island has always needed: an Orcas Island Yacht Club.
Whatever the future brings, Rosario -- with all its promise -- will continue to rank as one of the islands’ most satisfying boating destinations.
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This article first appeared in the November 1, 1999 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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