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Peace of the Rock
by Peter Howorth
Southern California's tiny Santa Barbara Island is a delightful wilderness getaway
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Santa Barbara Island is so small that Navy personnel working there in the 1950s called it "the Rock." Yet, this speck on the chart is truly a gem -- which is why it was included when Channel Islands National Park was established in 1980.
Well beyond the crowded Southern California coast, past ever-popular Catalina Island, Santa Barbara Island sits 42 miles southwest of Los Angeles Harbor. With just 635 acres of land, it is the smallest of the Channel Islands -- barely smaller than Anacapa, which boasts 636 acres.
Santa Barbara Island is a wilderness spot that is both quiet and isolated. But boating visitors to the island always receive a cordial welcome from park rangers, as well as from the feisty sea lions that play in the anchorage.
You won't find many man-made features here -- except for a ranger's station and an automated Coast Guard light at the top of Arch Point. If you're looking for other boaters or shoreside night spots, this isn't the place to be.
But if you're looking for an out-of-the-ordinary destination -- an unspoiled islet that is practically ruled by abundant colonies of sea lions and elephant seals, crisscrossed by scenic trails that relatively few visitors get a chance to fully explore -- Santa Barbara Island is one-of-a-kind.
Getting There
The first sights boaters will notice when cruising toward Santa Barbara Island are its twin peaks. The main anchorage, located at the northeast corner of the island, is spacious and offers good holding ground in 20 to 50 feet of water.
A small reef stretches toward Catalina, southeast of the landing cove. This reef is deep, so it poses no threat -- except perhaps of fouling an anchor.
Sheltered by the looming island, the anchorage offers a snug lee from the prevailing west and northwest winds.
During Santa Ana conditions, you can anchor on the opposite side in the large bight south of Webster Point. Allow plenty of room to clear the reefs off the point.
At the main anchorage, the breeze can get quite brisk toward evening, so allowing plenty of scope and setting your hook deeply is a must.
If you plan to row a dinghy ashore for a visit to the island, keep the wind in mind when returning to your boat. Some skippers row close to the island's coast until their boat is directly downwind, then let the wind push them back effortlessly.
Landing at the Island
At the landing cove, a stout, two-deck platform rises above the rocks. Savvy skippers set their guests off from the dinghies at the ladders built into this landing.
When landing guests, have them wear backpacks so their hands are free for climbing the ladder.
Tying skiffs to the landing is not recommended, because the surge can cause problems. Also, boats tied to the dock can make landing difficult for others. But be sure to secure the boat to allow for higher-than-usual surges.
In late summer, swells from Mexican hurricanes sometimes sweep into the landing area. During this time of year, be sure to check before venturing ashore.
The Santa Barbara Island Visitor's Center overlooks the landing cove. This Spanish-style building replaced the old Quonset hut the park service inherited from the Navy. The new building is the place to chat with the ranger, register in the guest book, pick up a brochure and examine the interesting displays.
Exploring the Rock
The ranger can provide up-to-date information on Santa Barbara Island's many trails -- and may even join you for a hike.
The trails can easily be covered in a day -- but if you enjoy a leisurely pace with many stops to admire the view, take photographs or watch wildlife, plan to allow a bit more time.
One trail skirts the bluffs overlooking the anchorage, heading north to Arch Point and the tiny Coast Guard light. From there, it meanders uphill toward North Peak, 562 feet above the sea.
Overlooks offer great views of Shag Rock and Webster Point along the north shore. The trail then wanders south to the saddle between the two hills forming the island. At this point, you can take another trail back to the landing cove or continue hiking.
To the west, a trail weaves down the hill toward Webster Point at the northwest corner of the island. Parts of this trail are sometimes closed when gulls are nesting there.
Near Webster Point, the trail turns abruptly and ends on a cliff overlooking Elephant Seal Cove. Dozens of huge seals haul themselves out of the water during the winter mating and pup birthing season, and young elephant seals can be seen there year-round.
California sea lions also blanket the rocky north shore. Their incessant barking can be heard almost everywhere on the island.
At Elephant Seal Cove, the trail backtracks to the saddle.
From there, another trail winds up to Signal Peak, at 635 feet, the highest point on the island. Here, you can see the mainland as far away as Mount Baldy.
The rangers used to joke that on a clear day at Santa Barbara Island, you can see Los Angeles -- just as mainland folks say that on a clear day in Los Angeles, you can see the islands.
Catalina, San Clemente and San Nicolas islands are visible from Signal Peak, as well as Anacapa, Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa islands to the north. The peak also overlooks Sutil Island, a guano-covered rock off the southwest corner.
The trail continues down a fairly steep hill to the south end of the island. Paying attention to the trail markers is particularly important here because the sheer cliffs are constantly crumbling along the edges. Also, walking down this trail is much easier than going up, because of its steepness.
The south end is sprinkled with cholla cactus, which some hikers claim can fire its spines at you from 100 yards away. In actuality, the cactus is hard to see in the grass, so it's easy to step on it.
Tall hiking boots, rather than tennis shoes, are strongly recommended here.
Wild Wildlife
The trail wanders along the top of the bluff overlooking Southeast Rookery, a long stretch of rocky coast completely taken over by California sea lions. In summer, they come here by the hundreds to mate and have their pups.
Past the rookery, the trail juts inland through some "badlands," eroded sections with little vegetation. Between the badlands and the landing cove, however, lie some of the most beautiful stands of coreopsis found on the Channel Islands.
From the gnarled stumps of these strange plants burst huge daisy-like flowers, which usually peak in February. By summer, the plants look as if they have died a terrible death, but they are merely dormant, awaiting the rejuvenating rains of winter.
For those who are tired of hiking, a dinghy cruise off the island shore is a great option. Sea caves, arches and rocky monoliths make the coast extremely picturesque.
An entourage of sea lions will very likely escort you on your journey, which only adds to the fun. Be sure not to approach sea lions on the rocks and beaches too closely, however, since disturbing them is illegal.
Diving is quite good at Santa Barbara Island. The anchorage is great for snorkeling, although you are not allowed to take any invertebrates -- such as abalone or lobster -- in less than 20 feet of water along the east side of the island. The rest of the island's coast is unrestricted, although state fishing regulations still apply.
In the kelp beds, calico bass -- properly called kelp bass -- and white seabass can be caught on hook and line. Offshore, everything from swordfish and marlin to yellowtail and albacore is available.
Whether your goals are fishing, diving, sightseeing or just enjoying a lazy weekend away from the crowds, Santa Barbara Island has it all.
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This article first appeared in the July 1, 1995 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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